Flora arrived in Mazar-i-Sharif, North Afghanistan, on July 19. She travelled there to join her husband who is honourably employed supervising the building of a mud brick cultural centre. At the moment, Flora is a lady of leisure, but, despite the heat, she is valiantly searching for situations of interest in the environs.

Thursday, August 04, 2005

First brush with Balkh University students

I am back in Mazar.

This morning I had a rather unsatisfactory visit to Balkh University to meet the students of the English faculty, of whom my first, and doubtless over-hasty, impression was that they are a bunch of feckless ingrates. Maybe I am just pining for my dear, keen bright students in Khujand (northern Tajikistan), but this lot were even talking among themselves and on their mobiles while the Dean of their faculty was addressing them.

I had come as a result of an earlier meeting with the Dean, an elegantly dressed, mild mannered and courteous man, who was very encouraging when I suggested that I could offer the students extra English lessons. I wanted to offer group discussion classes, and perhaps also individual classes, as a way of making local friends and earning a bit of money. I roughly calculated how much I could charge to make it worthwhile for me but not too expensive for them – it seems that attending university is completely free, but it also seems likely that students do not come from the poorest families.

Of course, the memory of being treated like a celebrity and revered like a soothsayer while freelancing as an English teacher in Khujand was fresh in my mind.

When the Dean took me into one of the four classes, the students stood up initially to greet us, but then all slouched back in their seats (well, it is very hot), and resumed their interrupted conversations. Most of the girls had nasty candy coloured lipstick on, which clashes horribly with their skin colour. No burqas are worn in the university of course, but when the students take them off at the entrance, the mouth-shaped smears of fuchsia lipstick on the inside are revealed. The boys had quivering, oiled mustaches.

The girls greatly outnumbered the boys in the class I visited, and they were all very laidback and blasé. As they remained silent when I outlined my plan, I asked them for suggestions and advice on what might be needed. I received the following suggestions: buy a tape recorder, so we can practice; make sure we all have copies of the book you are using (from my own pocket? I could not help asking incredulously – there were at least 50 of them); you should use ‘Streamline’ for discussion classes; we want to learn the new expressions.

The assembled students are all in their last year of English, and their sole ambition is to become teachers of English in local schools, which perhaps explains why they are not particularly driven to improve their language skills beyond what is strictly necessary and locally available. By contrast in Northern Tajikistan, there is a strong feeling that English is the gateway to all the best and best paid jobs, which are all in foreign organizations. Young Tajiks are starved of contact with the outside world, and eager to escape to pastures new, while young Afghans perhaps feel that contact with the outside world is not necessarily all it’s cracked up to be.

I now think that some of the disagreeable impression they made on me (and I daresay the feeling was mutual), was due to their having been summoned there to meet me on the last day of term, before finally breaking up for summer, and because my classes, I think, had not been presented as optional.
Not to be put off, we agreed to meet again in three weeks’ time.

7 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

"The boys had quivering, oiled mustaches."

What is a quivering mustache?

10:59 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

to quiver means to tremble

6:10 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

a realy interesting writing. probably you were expecting them to start worshiping u. that's a common expectation for western in the eastern part of the world. u like to be treated as a celib. interesting.

10:11 pm

 
Blogger Unknown said...

Thank you for your comment and for reading my blog. Are you in Afghanistan? I did not expect the students to worship me, but I think I did expect them to be interested to meet me. I was wrong. My plan was to volunteer some of my time to help the students in Mazar-i-Sharif University to improve their English, but it didn't happen, and I learned something from that. I can well imagine the reasons that Afghans might have for feeling hostile or indifferent towards the British.

10:55 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Allow me to let u know that I have found u to be extremely self centered and the reason is quite clear for me(after all u British ppl feel to be superior than all other nations)but u should always have a study of the history that Afghans have not left Britain as well with no lessons.
It has been too much of arrogance from ur side writing such comments about the students of the university I think u should better opt for a beauty parlor than a classroom and obviously dont ever think that whatever u think and feel is the only reality on the earth.

2:06 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Let me add that before judging about others once put urself in their shoes so that u can better understand ur capacities as a being. We the Afghan Nation have been as kind as u can never imagine. We have always welcomed u westerns and have been betrayed and again had a smile on face to welcome u back still we have the disgustings like U to go back to ur country and be over confident to write bad words about a nation who have always served u westerns with their blood and a country where u have always come to play ur nasty games of politics or individuals like u come for earing in one way or the other under one name or the other.
I HOPE THIS WILL HELP U LEARN SOMETHING !!!

2:42 pm

 
Blogger Flora said...

I am sorry that my blog offended you. I did not mean to insult Afghanistan or any Afghans by my writing. I lived in Afghanistan only for a few months but I made good friends while I was there and have good memories of my time there.
Why do you post anonymously? Do you have some reason to wish to hide your name?

6:20 am

 

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